Foodist: Cookbook Reviews

Dangerous Desserts

By Orlando Murrin, editor

According to the coroner's report the apparent cause of death was one helping too many of Orange Cheesecake Brulee with Orange Sauce. Dangerous Desserts indeed. Does that make Orlando Murrin an accomplice as well as the editor of this seductive selection of souffles, mousses, and meringues?

And not just souffles. But trifles, too. And puddings (this is a British production after all) unlike any Jack Aubrey or Chuck Dickens ever encountered: Orange Marmalde Steamed Pudding, Chocolate and Hazelnut Steamed Pudding, Ginger, Lemon, and Honey Steamed Pudding. You'll find frozen desserts, tarts, pies, and pastries, crepes, pancakes and waffles, custards, creams, iced creams, and frozen fruit wonders. Editor Orlando Murrin shows no restraints and takes no prisoners.

The coffee table-book size photos, in living, oozing color, display potential end results to greatest advantage. Editorial is kept to an absolute minimum. There's no need to preach. The feast is for the eyes and it is stunningly obvious, a seeing-is-believing experience.

Each section includes at least one Master Class. Making a souffle, for example. Step by step. Followed by variations on the theme. Or making crème brulee. Or making crepes. It's a teaching book, if you will, not just one chef showing off. Dangerous Desserts is a delightful book to encourage any cook's own extravagant experimentation.

Schuyler Ingle ...